Textile Production - Elective Research
Emily Crane's Bio-Lace
Emily Crane is a fashion designer who experiments with growing and freezing bubbles to create delicate bio-lace structures used for material for clothing and accessories. The process capturing bubbles in organic fluids like gelatine and glycerine along with food colouring and freezes them into beautiful shapes and structures. I wouldn't have thought that the bio-lace would be very durable as the structures would be so delicate, however the outcomes are very feminine and beautiful
Kieren Jones skin and bones
Using discarded chicken skin and bones, Kieren Jones creates garments and products such as spoons and eggs cups in his home. With the aim of using all the parts of a chicken, he incinerates the bones in his garden, grinds up the ash and reconsitutes them into homewares like egg cups. he also tans the the chicken skins to be used as a cheap leather for garments.
Trash Fashion - MORPHOTEX
Morphotex fibre mimics the properties of the Morpho butterfly with the iridescent colour of its wings, also similar to that of a peacock feather. The Japanese textile company Teijin have reproduced this microscopic structure using polyester and nylon fibres in alternating layers so that light will bounce and scatter between the layers to reveal a rainbow of colours. As the colour is purely a trick of the light, no dye is needed which cuts water usage, toxic chemicals and energy used to dye the fabric. The fabric will also never fade like dyed fabrics often do.
Trash Fashion - BIO-COUTURE
Designer Suzanne Lee uses natural resources to literally grow a fabric for use in fashion design. She mixes bacteria and yeast with a sugary tea solution which produces fibres that stick together to form a thick rubbery type of substance. It is then dried out and pattern cut, further detail is added by laser cutting and printing using other natural materials such as fruit and turmeric.
I think being able to literally grow your own clothes is about as innovative as it gets with textiles. However, there are still a few problems with BioCouture causing it to not be very wearable, for exapmle getting it wet would make it go slimey. I'm also not sure about the overall appearance of the fabric.
Trash Fashion - KNIT TO FIT
Today, cheap clothes are made to fit the general population, resulting in people buying clothes that don’t fit well. Or they just don’t get sold so end up as land fill waste. Knit to Fit aims at reducing the throw away fashion idea and merge the benefits of bespoke tailoring with mass production. The process involves a full body scan to get the full measurements of the entire body of the customer, in a 360 degree view. Colour, style and fit preferences are discussed and decided beforehand as the information is sent to a specialised knitting machine which creates a 3D garment. This process uses absolutely no waste and creates a perfectly fitting knitted garment. It also minimises the steps in manufacture which leads to less energy usage and no waste from pattern cutting
What I found very interesting was the idea put forward by proffessor Sandy Black (the inventor of Knit to Fit) which was that one day the customer will all have our exact 3D body measurements on individual swipe cards which they can then take to the high street and order a garment that is bespoke to them.
TRASH FASHION exhibition @ The Science Museum
The exhibition explored the latest scientific technology concerned with reducing waste. Designers such as Kate Goldsworthy and Suzanne Lee exhibited their innovative designs and portrayed ways in which they are kinder to the environment and the importance of sustainability in everyday fashion and textiles. I have selected a few to research and put on my blog.
Fast Food Fashion by Neda Niaraki
Central Saint Martins graduate Neda Niaraki was concerned with the idea of “throw-away fashion” and the over consumption of fashion in today’s culture. So she created a collection of garments made from a recyclable fibre called Tyvek. The garments are accessible to anyone and everyone as they are “one size fits all” and are designed to be worn up to 12 times before they deteriorate and can be disposed of. This is intended to stop people buying cheap, un-ethical garments, wearing them only a couple of times, and then throwing them away where they will end up in land fill. These garments will satisfy the population’s want and need to buy more as the trends change, but ease the guilt if they did want to throw them out. I think this is a very interesting approach and a great way of overcoming the over indulgence mixed with guilt. Also the fact that they are being disposed of responsibly is important. However, a lot of the time people do buy garments with the intention of wearing them a lot and seeing them through the seasons, and I think if I bought a garment that I really liked and it deteriorated after a few wears I’d be a bit disappointed.
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